When a burning sun dips low enough on the horizon to touch the brown-black earth, that is when South Africa is at its very best a blazing expanse of broad landscapes of sea and veld, dusty savanna and equally dusty pavements. It is a vast country, extending from pristine coastal plain to rugged mountain passes across wide stretches of semi-desert and forest, hills and valleys. Even travelling South Africans are unprepared.
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